While we were just leaving Winter Harbor passed another black bear grabbing breakfast on the shore. They turn over rocks looking for goodies underneath. Far in the distance we can make out ‘the Brooks’.
We didn’t actively blog while rounding ‘the Brooks’. It was rather exciting, with Cape Cook at the end of the peninsula getting closer and closer. The book calls the cape ‘the cape of storms’ and ‘where tempests are born’. Rounding it was THAT bad, but we were surfing in 8 to 10 foot waves under the jib alone going about 8 knots.
While we rounded both Jodi and I got a little queasy, but then recovered fairly quickly. I think Jodi has found her sea legs – there was still quite a bit of motion, but she began to feel much better. I think the brain defines a ‘new normal’ and the motion becomes the norm. Moving around seems to be easier as well. You need to use both your hands and your legs to get around because of the movement, but once you adapt, it’s fine.
We were trying for a specific anchorage in the Bunsby’s, but GASP. There were 5 other boats in there. Much too crowded. We tried for a secondary anchorage. One other boat. STILL too crowded. So we went around the corner. The book said ‘great anchorage, but difficult to get into’. No kidding. We snaked through unmarked reefs, Jodi on the bow pointing out dangers. As we entered, there was a big sea otter in the water clapping for us. We eased Cambria back into sort of lagoon, surrounded by reefs. We dropped the hook and had the place all to ourselves. Perfect.
Jodi prepared the appetizers: An assortment of Beechers Curds, Nuts, Beets, Antipasti, and Salami. Yum. After not eating (difficult while sailing) a welcome sight.
There are supposed to be quite a few sea otters here. We saw a few coming in, but haven’t seen any in our little lagoon.
July 8th. Location 50.6.94N, 127.30.42W. Evening was perfect in the little lagoon. Well protected, bathwater calm all night. In the morning we had coffee and watched a bear on the beach, then just down from that what I thought were 2 logs turned out to be a mama bear and her little cub. By our count, that was our 8th bear sighting in total.
We then went for a 4 and a half mile kayak trip. Which was probably 2 miles too long. Saw one sea otter from a distance. They just float on their back, roll around, and then float on their back some more.
The water is stunningly clear. Bruce or Doug, if you are reading this, the diving would be fantastic.
Brought up the anchor and took a different route out of our lagoon. Again, tricky. Needed to follow our eyes, not the chart or the electronic chart. More or less ‘feel’ your way out, zig zagging around the rocks and reefs.
Went through the Bunsby’s (named after a Dickens novel character) and saw a few more sea otters, again at a distance.
Had a nice – very nice – sail under jib alone. Did just under 7 knots in about 15 knots of wind. Wonderful.
Stopped off at Walters Cove, an Indian village of the Kyuquot Nation. No fuel there, but a small store that has everything from sweatshirts to gardening equipment, rudimentary groceries, fishing tackle, etc all crammed into a very small building.
After sailing with virtually no navigational markers, Walters Cove was a well marked freeway. You need to make some tight “S” turns to get around the rocks, but everything was very well marked. This village will probably stand the test of time where Winter Harbor will likely not. The book says there’s fuel here, but there isn’t. And hasn’t had it for about 20 years. Seems most of the commerce has moved to Fair Harbor, but we’re probably not going to go there. Critical supplies were obtained at Walter’s Cove (half and half and pepper). Critical and VERY expensive ($11 for just those 2 items!).
1600 hours. Well into Kyuquot Sound now, headed for Dixie Cove – supposedly a tight anchorage ringed with old growth trees.
Kyuquot Sound is really pretty. Long fjords punch into Vancouver Island and we can see snowcapped mountains in the distance. As you approach from the ocean, there are reefs all over and even in the clear areas the depths are a little over 100 feet – but once you get into the sound, the depths go to 600 feet or more.
Navigating around here requires attention. There are unmarked rocks everywhere. And in some of the most unlikely places. It’s not particularly difficult, but does require chronic attention and focus. We’re starting to tick off our position every 15 minutes.
1700 hours. Just arrived at Dixie Cove. The book says it’s the most protected and prettiest cove on the entire west coast. And we have it to ourselves. No other boat in the inlet. You actually have to come through one bay, then there’s a small opening and that opens into the inner bay. Pretty cool. Never been logged in here so there are old growth trees ringing the cove. Small old growth trees. Small gnarled old growth with moss. Very green water. All and all a very nice anchorage. We have a heavy metal CD qued up and the speaker covers off should another boat appear.
Over cocktails the balance of the trip takes shape. We’ve been largely ‘making it up’ planning out 2-3 days at a time against an overall backdrop of where we need to be. Our planning was to be in specific areas at specific times, but the actual anchorage is largely day to day. We’ve been out now for 8 days, and have 10 or so left to go. Tomorrow we’ll again head out into the ocean, then decide whether to cut in and take the longer, inner route to Nootka Sound or simply stay in the ocean and make the more direct route. Weather, temperament, stomachs, and inner ears all get a vote…
1840 hours. Just spent happy hour on the bow. The weather is stunning. After fog and rain, this is absolutely what was needed. In a land locked cove all to ourselves in the sun. Unbelievably nice.
Looking around, there are extreme divergent themes. One moment we’re looking at bears, or the nearly extinct sea otters that are making a comeback. Then there’s Winter Harbor – a fading memory of the fishing industry that is, for now, gone. Hopefully wild salmon will again be plentiful, but that could take generations. Then there’s the old growth of Brooks Peninsula and, as I look above the old growth of Dixie cove, see clear cut mountains in the distance. It’s a wild coast, but a worked coast. The working has left scars that will take a long time for recovery.
July 9th, 2011. 1000 hours. Location: 49.51.275N, 127.12.690W. We left Dixie Cove around 7:45 this morning. Flat calm, blue skies. We motored for about an hour to get to the ocean out of Kyuquot sound, then another 30 minutes out into the pacific to avoid the reefs that extend out about 3 miles guarding the entrance.
We set the main and are motor sailing, using the main as a steadying sail against the glassy pacific swells. The wind slowly filling in from the Northwest, but still not enough to sail. As it is we’re making poor time, averaging between 5 and 6 knots.
Our hope is to get into Nootka sound tonight. I’ve always wanted to get ‘up’ to Nootka – approaching it from the North is something I never thought I’d do.
Nootka sound is the site of the Noota Treaty signed in 1790. The readers digest version is this: The Spanash had been working their up from the south, the Russians had been working their way down from the North and the British had been taking potluck, claiming territory where they landed in between. The Nootka tready effectively limited the Spanish influence in the Northwest and divided up Russian and British interests. I’ll read up on the details later and fill in if needed. .
Friendly clove in Nootka sound is also where the first ship was built on the West Coast in 1788. Captain Cook, Captain George Vancouver, Captain Quadra, etc all sailed into Nootka Sound at one point or another. Two hundred and twenty something years later, we will too….
1132 hours. Location 49.45.104N, 127.05.071W. Finally unfurled the jib. Still motoring, but wind is assisting nicely. I can see how some really don’t like ocean passages. We need to be about 4 miles off the coast to avoid all the rocks. As it is, we’re only in about 200 feet of water, but the coast is foul with reefs. By staying this far out, we’ve got a course clear of all rocks – but we’re so far out there’s little of interest to see. The topography is great, but it’s at a distance.
1215 hours. Just made lunch down below. Normally not very noteworthy, but the swells made it interesting. We have a gimbaled stove, which means it swings freely, keeping the cooking surface level. Nothing else is level, but when you make soup, the soup stays in the pot and keeps nice and level while everything else, including the cook, slides around. The galley is narrow, so you can put your feet well in front of you and lean back to brace yourself. That way you can use both hands – which is nice when your’re trying to make grilled cheese sandwiches. It becomes an interesting mix of balance and trying to figure what’s going to slide around next.
1446 hours, location 49.33.721N, 126.45.470W. Another day in the ocean is coming to a close. We’ve rounded Bajo reef and are headed into Nootka sound. While Nootka is the site of much history, there is no Indian word like “Nootka”. The exact origins are unknown, but apparently mispronouncing Indian names was common, and it was a traditional Indian joke to repeat the mispronounced name exactly as the white guys mangled it. So if Captain Cooks guys got it wrong, the Indians would make a joke about it and reinforce the wrong pronunciation. The joke is permanently recorded on her majesty’s charts.
Jodi now has her sea legs. No repeat of the sea sickness despite being in the ocean all day.
Under full sail in cook channel doing 7 knots, just like the days of old. No engine. I feel like an old salt. Wait, the GPS on my droid says I’m slightly off course….
940pm (or 2140 hours). We pulled into the inner cove behind Critter Cove and there were two floating homes there. So much for a quiet anchorage. We did a 180 and came back to Critter Cove, which is a fishing lodge. Justin, if you are reading this, this is a spot for your Dad. Nice accommodations, friendly staff, and we met 2 guests that have been coming here for 20 years. They use wheelbarrows, BIG ONES, to move the fish around. We talked to one guy and they caught 48 fish in a HALF DAY today. They started at 1 pm. Really nice place and we’re the only sailboat.
The owners have a couple of dogs, both rescued. One was seen by a sea plane pilot. The pilot spotted what he thought was a bear trying to swim across an inlet. Curious, the pilot flew low for a better look. It wasn’t a bear, it was a dog. And it was a large inlet and the dog seemed to be losing the battle swimming across. He landed, got the dog, and that’s how ‘Shrek’ came to the lodge. Shrek died a couple of years ago, but 2 new rescues are there, one of which was Donkey. A real sweet dog.
0530 hours. One of the downsides of staying at a fishing lodge? They get up early and their boats are noisy. The whole place sprang to life at first light and scores of salmon, who are at this very moment swimming out in the pacific, will, by this evening, become fish filets. I may try to enhance the transformation for one myself later on today…
Nootka, as a whole, is a bit of a disappointment. It’s pretty, but there are a number of clear cuts and it just doesn’t have that ‘special’ feel to it like the Bunsby’s or the Broughtons. I’ve read about this place for years, always have wanted to come here, but now feel a bit disappointed. If you are after fishing, this seems to be one of the hot spots, but for quiet cruising, we’re going to press on.
1500 hours. Location 49.24.903N 126.38.017W. We just sailed for the last 3 hours. Slowly, averaging about 4 knots, but turned out to be a good trolling speed. Armed with a lure recommended by a 12 year old ‘movie star’ at Critter Cove, we landed a nice salmon. It was a bit exciting. We were under sail, and BAM! The line on the reel takes off spinning. I grab the rod and start fighting the fish. At that moment in time a rather impressive sequence of pacific swells starts rolling the boat. Without going into all the details, the fish was successfully landed.
About 15 minutes later, Jodi and I resumed talking to each other.
The ‘movie star’ reference above was due to the 12 year olds cameo appearance in the documentary ‘Luna’. The story about a young killer whale that lived in Nootka sound a few years ago. It became quite friendly – overly friendly – with people and boats. While it make for some great pictures and stories, any wild animal that gets too comfortable with humans is usually the worse off for the experience. Luna was no different and was fatally injured when she swam too close to a Tug Boat propeller.
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